{"id":19710,"date":"2022-05-19T01:13:51","date_gmt":"2022-05-19T08:13:51","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cortezrescue.wpenginepowered.com\/?page_id=19710"},"modified":"2025-10-21T15:33:02","modified_gmt":"2025-10-21T19:33:02","slug":"furever-homes","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/cortezrescue.org\/es\/furever-homes\/","title":{"rendered":"Casas Furever"},"content":{"rendered":"

\n\t\t\tAdopting And Bringing Home Your Rescue Dog\t<\/h1>\n\t

Our Adoption Process<\/strong><\/h2>\n

\n\t\t\tStep 1\t<\/h3>\n\t

Fill out an online Adoption Application. \u00a0If you already have a dog in mind, let us know on your application. If you want help finding the perfect companion let us know. \u00a0 \u00a0At Cortez Rescue we are as interested and concerned as you are about finding the best match dog for you. Some of our dogs are currently at the Cortez Shelter, some are in Foster homes, and some are with our Partner Groups. All of Cortez adoptable dogs are listed on our website. Dogs and puppies are viewed at the Rescue Shelter by appointment only. Email us if you’d like to visit.<\/p>\n

\n\t\t\tStep 2\t<\/h3>\n\t\t\t\t\"online\n\t

Once you submit your adoption application in Step 1, a Cortez Rescue staff member will follow up with you and schedule an interview.<\/p>\n

\n\t\t\tStep 3\t<\/h3>\n\t

We Make It Easy To Adopt Your New Best “Baja” Friend –<\/p>\n

    \n
  1. Complete<\/strong> the Adoption Application And Interview Process.<\/li>\n
  2. Make<\/strong> Adoption Fee Payment On-Line. If It Will Be An “Out of Area” Adoption – Cortez Rescue and Outreach Will Make Travel Arrangements And Notify You With Details.<\/li>\n
  3. Join<\/strong> the Cortez Families Facebook Group To Share Photos And Updates Of Your New Pup With Others.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    It’s that easy! And you will have a new, cherished member of the family to love and enjoy!<\/p>\n

    Cortez Rescue and Outreach – For The Love Of Dogs<\/p>\n

    \n\t\t\tClick On Our Dog Adoption Handbook Below And Get Tips For A Successful Adoption\t<\/h5>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\tDog Adoption Handbook\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\"Rescue\n

    \n\t\t\tMore Tips For A Successful Adoption\t<\/h2>\n\t\t\t\tRead These 7 Tips For Successful Introductions\n

    Animals That Live In Groups Or Packs…<\/strong> like dogs, establish relationships through which they interact and live together. The roles that each individual plays within the relationship can change with each new day or situation.<\/p>\n

    These relationships can take time to build, so proper introductions are very important to help the dogs adjust to one another and start to build on their relationships.<\/p>\n

    1 – INTRODUCE ONE DOG AT A TIME<\/strong>
    If you have more than one resident dog in your household, it may be best to introduce the resident dogs to the new dog one at a time.<\/em> Two or more resident dogs may have a tendency to “gang up”; on the newcomer.<\/p>\n

    2 – CHOOSE A NEUTRAL LOCATION FOR THE MEETING<\/strong>
    Introduce the dogs in a neutral location so that your resident dog is less likely to view the newcomer as an intruder.<\/em> Each dog should be handled by a separate person. With both dogs on a leash, take them to an area with which neither is familiar, such as a park, where you can go for a walk together.<\/p>\n

    If adopting a new dog from a shelter, we recommend bringing your resident dog with you to the shelter and introducing the dogs before adopting.<\/em> Take the dogs for a walk starting out approximately 10-15 feet apart. Slowly allow the dogs to get closer together but do not allow them to meet while the handlers are holding the leashes. Give simple commands and offer food rewards often throughout the walk.<\/p>\n

    3 – BE AWARE OF BODY POSTURES<\/strong>
    One body posture that indicates things are going well is a “play-bow.”<\/em> One dog will crouch with her front legs on the ground and her hind end in the air. This is an invitation to play that usually elicits friendly behavior from the other dog.<\/p>\n

    Other appropriate investigative behaviors might include sniffing the air<\/em> in the direction of the other dog, looking at or walking toward the other dog with a tail that is low and loose and wagging in a large arch.<\/p>\n

    Watch carefully for body postures that indicate an escalation in response,<\/em> teeth-baring, deep growls, a stiff-legged gait, or a prolonged stare. If you see such postures, interrupt the interaction immediately by calmly and positively getting each dog interested in something else.<\/strong> For example, both handlers can walk backward while calling their dogs to them, have them sit or lie down, and reward each with a treat, then resume your walk.<\/p>\n

    Raised hackles or hair standing up on the dog’s back,<\/em> may indicate that the dog is concerned and needs more space from the other dog and time to acclimate. It is not necessarily a concern but is something to notice in conjunction with other body language.<\/p>\n

    It is best to walk with the dogs on a loose or soft leash<\/em> so that there is no pressure of tension on the leash from the handler. Pressure or tension on the leash can lead to a change in the dog’s body language that can be misinterpreted by the other dog.<\/p>\n

    4 – TAKING THE DOGS HOME<\/strong>
    When the dogs seem to be tolerating each other without fearful or aggressive responses<\/em> and the investigative greeting behaviors have tapered off, you can take them home to your backyard or to a friend’s neutral backyard. Bring both dogs into the yard and, when they are ignoring each other and perhaps sniffing around the yard, drop the leashes. Allow the dogs to investigate the yard and each other without interference from the handlers on the ends of the leashes.<\/p>\n

    Don’t force any interaction between the dogs.<\/em> If the dogs ignore each other at first, or if one dog seems reluctant to interact with the other, that’s okay. It is appropriate for one dog to tell the other that they are moving too quickly or coming on too strong; this can be done with a growl, a bark, a lip curl, or even an air snap.<\/p>\n

    Consider allowing them to communicate with each other.<\/em> It becomes inappropriate or problematic if it is a prolonged correction from the dog after the corrected dog moved away or if the corrected dog doesn’t back off. Give both dogs time to get comfortable. They’ll interact when they’re ready. Carefully watch the body language as described above. Hackles, or the raised hair along a dog’s back, are an involuntary response to excitement, arousal, fear, anxiety, or any other number of emotions. Hackles alone can’t tell you whether or not a dog is concerned about the other and they may calm over time.<\/p>\n

    Keep an eye out for other concerning body postures<\/em> coupled with hackles before intervening. If you are concerned about the body language, the handlers can pick up the ends of the leashes and move in opposite directions to move the dogs away from one another.<\/p>\n

    Carefully watch the body language as described above.<\/em><\/strong> Hackles, or the raised hair along a dog’s back, are an involuntary response to excitement, arousal, fear, anxiety, or any other number of emotions. Hackles alone can’t tell you whether or not a dog is concerned about the other and they may calm over time. Keep an eye out for other concerning body postures coupled with hackles before intervening. If you are concerned about the body language, the handlers can pick up the ends of the leashes and move in opposite directions to move the dogs away from one another.<\/p>\n

    Once you are comfortable that the dogs are doing well together<\/em> outside the home, pick up the leashes and take the new dog into the house while the second person remains outside with the resident dog.<\/p>\n

    Giving the new dog an opportunity to explore the home on her own<\/em> can allow the dogs time to relax from the initial meeting as well as give the new dog a chance to get to know her new surroundings without the established dog interfering. You can also take this opportunity to remove any food, toys, bones, bedding, or other items that might trigger conflict between the dogs. Peek under the furniture and in between couch cushions for bones and toys hidden away.<\/p>\n

    In addition, giving the new dog the chance to enter the home first<\/em> can often diffuse territorial issues. After the new dog has explored the home, bring the new dog into a large room on leash. You will want to prevent the dogs from having an initial meeting in the home in a narrow hallway or entryway. Bring the resident dog into the same room, also on a leash. When the dogs are not focused on each other, drop the leashes and allow both dogs to further investigate the room and each other.<\/p>\n

    Be patient.<\/strong> Bringing a new dog home requires that everyone make some adjustments,<\/em> especially your current pets. And it will take time for your dogs to build a comfortable relationship.<\/p>\n

    5 -DO NOT LEAVE THE DOGS ALONE UNTIL YOU ARE CONFIDENT THEY ARE GETTING ALONG<\/strong>
    This means observing their behavior toward each other when the door bell rings, when a squirrel is seen outside the window and other such exciting circumstances.<\/em> It is okay to crate your new dog when you cannot supervise, even if the resident dog is allowed free roam. It is best to place the crated dog in a room behind a closed door away from the other dog so they cannot “talk” to each other through the crate door.<\/p>\n

    Take your time to observe their interactions before choosing to leave them alone unsupervised.<\/em><\/p>\n

    Consider getting breakaway collars for safety for crated dogs<\/em> and when two dogs are playing to avoid any accidents.<\/p>\n

    6 – INTRODUCING PUPPIES TO ADULT DOGS<\/strong>
    Puppies usually pester adult dogs unmercifully.<\/em> Before approximately the age of four months, or sometimes older, puppies may not recognize subtle body postures from adult dogs signaling that they’ve had enough.<\/p>\n

    Well-socialized adult dogs with good temperaments may set limits<\/em> with puppies with a growl or snarl, never hurting the puppy although the puppy may yelp out of surprise. This communication is healthy and should be allowed.<\/p>\n

    Adult dogs that aren’t well socialized or that have a history of fighting with other dogs, may attempt to set limits with more aggressive behaviors<\/em> such as biting which could harm the puppy. For this reason, a puppy shouldn’t be left alone with an adult dog. Crating the puppy when alone will keep everyone safe and benefit house training.<\/p>\n

    Be sure to give the adult dog some quiet time away from the puppy,<\/em> and perhaps some individual attention. When you help the adult dog have some space away from the puppy, the adult dog will likely be happier when it is time to be with the puppy.<\/p>\n

    \u00a0<\/p>\n

    Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado and ASPCA Virtual Pet Behaviorist.\u00a0<\/p>\n\t\t\t\tUnderstanding Your New Rescue Dog… The 3 3 3 Rule\n\t\t\t\t\t

    \"Rescue<\/p>\n

    All of us in Rescue know the importance of decompression.<\/strong> However many new adopters and fosters aren’t familiar with this concept.<\/p>\n

    Most occurrences of people wanting to return their foster<\/em> or adopted dog happen within the first 72 hours of the dog coming to their home.<\/p>\n

    Rescue dogs have gone through a world of change.<\/em> Some of these dogs have been surrendered… They were living a life in a home, they went for a car ride with their family and suddenly they are trapped in a tiny kennel at a shelter surrounded by strange people, strange sounds, and strange smells.\u00a0 Some dogs are strays that got lost and couldn’t find their way home and others are street dogs that have never had a home and have no idea they even want one.<\/p>\n

    They are absolutely terrified when they arrive at the Rescue.<\/em> These pups don’t realize we are there to save them. We load them up in vans and cars and we drive them across town. They go to the veterinarian and more strange people stick them with needles and put them through strange tests.\u00a0 More new people, new sounds, and new smells.<\/p>\n

    If this was a person they would be absolutely shut down.<\/em> The dogs on the other hand are expected to know when and where to potty, what they can and can’t chew on, sleep quietly in a new kennel, and to be appropriately socialized when meeting new friends. For some dogs, they make the transition ok. Others make so many doggy mistakes and then they get dumped right back in a scary shelter environment because they take longer to adjust. Then we start the process all over again with them.<\/p>\n

    Unfortunately for the dogs people forget that they can’t talk.<\/em> The dogs bark, they cry, they howl, they growl; they try to express their concerns in doggy language. They don’t know what we want. They have to be taught what we want. They aren’t perfect dogs. Many are broken, some are just bruised, but all need you and your loving patience and support.<\/p>\n

    Volunteering, fostering and adopting isn’t always pretty,<\/em> it isn’t always clean, but it is always worth it. It’s our job to love them and train them.<\/p>\n

    Dales el tiempo de descompresi\u00f3n que se merecen para que puedan hacer lo que mejor saben hacer, te amo.<\/strong><\/p>\n

    (Shared in-part from Laura Berg)<\/p>\n\t\t\t\tDog Training, The Basics\n\t\t\t\t\t

    As you probably know, training your dog has numerous benefits, for both you and your pup.<\/strong><\/p>\n

    Training is crucial to dogs living happily with you, other family members as well as other pets they encounter.<\/em> It helps avoid unwanted behaviors and it enhances your bond with your pet. There are a few basics that can help set up your dog – and you, for success.<\/p>\n

    Training should be a fun experience for your dog.<\/em> Don’t get frustrated if you have a bad training session.<\/p>\n

    Learning isn’t linear<\/em> and your dog may fluctuate in their progress from day to day. Stay calm, keep the big picture in mind and do your best with the dog you have in front of you.<\/p>\n

    If it’s not working, then stop the session<\/em> and try again later or the following day. Remember, this is about establishing long-term behavior for a long-term relationship. Take it slowly, and above all, have fun.<\/p>\n

    Seek help from a qualified professional for challenging behaviors<\/strong><\/em>. Dogs are complex beings and may exhibit behaviors that are beyond the scope of the average person to change. Should you find yourself in this situation, it may be helpful to find a qualified professional to address any challenging behaviors.<\/p>\n

    Basic Commands For Your New Dog To Learn<\/strong><\/p>\nSit: <\/strong>Use a lure (like a treat) to encourage your dog to sit, then reward the behavior with a treat and praise.\u00a0\n\u00a0\nStay: <\/strong>Teach your dog to stay by initially starting with short durations and gradually increasing the time.\u00a0\n\u00a0\nCome: <\/strong>Use a positive and encouraging tone when calling your dog, and reward them enthusiastically when they come.\u00a0\n\u00a0\nOff:<\/strong> Similar to down but used primarily for jumping dogs. Put your open hand in front of your dog and firmly say “OFF”. Guide them to a sitting position.\n\u00a0\nDown: <\/strong>Similar to sit, use a lure to guide your dog into a down position and reward.\n\u00a0\n\u00a0\n\u00a0\nHeel: <\/strong>Train your dog to walk politely on a leash by keeping a loose leash and using a “heel” command.\u00a0\n\t\t\t\tCrate Training, The Basics\n

    Crate Training Your Dog<\/strong><\/header>\n

    Wild dog packs make their dens in caves or dense grottos because they feel safer there. So why do so many people oppose the idea of crating their family dog?<\/p>\n

    Crate training can be misunderstood and even misused. When used properly though, crating offers an excellent way for your dog to learn how to relax and find their own space.<\/p>\n

    Below are some ideas about selecting the proper size and type of crate as well as proper usage.<\/strong><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n
    Selecting a Crate – <\/strong><\/header>\n
    Most people choose one of two types of crates:<\/header>\n