Fostering a dog from Cortez Rescue and Outreach actually saves two lives at once. It saves the dog you welcome into your home (and heart) and it also saves a dog who is in need, who now has a spot in our rescue (instead of being turned away due to lack of space.)
It's truly incredible to watch the transformation a dog goes through when they move from a shelter situation to a Foster home environment. Foster homes are a dogs preparation for adoption and an important step in getting adopted. Foster homes truly are the FRONT LINE for these dogs and a critical step in saving lives!
A foster home provides a temporary living situation for dogs while they are awaiting placement in a permanent home. Foster families provide shelter, food (provided), exercise, care, love, and guidance. The number of dogs we can save depends entirely on the number of people who will open their homes and hearts to foster them. For some of these dogs, this will be their first experience being treated as a family pet. You should never underestimate the important role you are playing in their lives!
Being a foster family has rewards beyond the essential value of helping a pet in need find a new home. For some, it is a chance to have an dog companion without making a lifetime commitment, or to try new companions for an existing pet. For others it's a chance to find their new best friend without committing to adoption immediately. Foster Care is so critical to our rescue efforts and truly help these dogs more easily transition to their new permanant home when adopted.
It's easy math, the more Foster homes we have, the more dogs we can save. Becoming a foster family is a very rewarding experience, and can be a lot of fun. There are often tears shed when a foster finally finds a home of their own, but knowing you have saved a life and opened up space to save another is truly rewarding.
Thank You So Much For Becoming A Foster To One Of Our Rescue Dogs
Your foster dog is on our website and up for adoption. Adoptions can happen at any time.
If you have anyone, including yourself, interested in adopting your foster, please contact us by email at info@cortezrescue.org then go to our website cortezrescue.org and complete the adoption form. Qualified adopters are on a first come basis.
Be sure to give your foster dog enough time to bond with you before taking them out in public. Some dogs can be very shy and scare easily which could make them a flight risk. Nobody wants to lose a foster dog so please be aware of your foster dog's fears.
If your foster dog is younger than 4 months old do not take her/him to public areas such as beaches or restaurants or around any suspected unvaccinated dogs. Most local dogs are not vaccinated and could spread disease to our young pups. If older than 4 months we ask that they are always on leash and are wearing their “Adopt Me” bandana. This lets everyone see that your adorable foster dog is looking for a forever home.
When you can, update us at info@cortezrescue.org about how your foster dog is doing. What skills, behaviors, sensitivities, etc. they are exhibiting. We need this information to add to online profiles for potential adopters to see their progress and make the best home match decisions. We love to get great pictures too! It really makes all the difference in finding them the best home possible.
Please be sure to return all your supplies (crates, collars, leashes, beds, bowls, toys, bandanas, etc…) to Cortez Rescue when finished fostering. We frequently run low on supplies and getting everything returned allows us to better care for the next dogs.
Our Mini Cortez Outreach office in Los Barriles is open for drop in from 10am to noon on Saturdays only - All other times are by appointment only.
Please email info@cortezrescue.org to submit an appointment request.
Thank you again for Fostering. We couldn’t do this without the help of our Volunteers!
Thank You So Much For Becoming A Foster To One Of Our Rescue Dogs. By opening up your home to fostering, you’re not only helping to save lives, you’re providing the individual attention and love these dogs desperately need in order to make a smooth transition to their forever home.
In a loving foster home, every dog can get the individual attention they need to find their forever family.
Care For A Cortez Rescue and Outreach Foster Dog Includes... Feeding according to size and needs, exercise according to energy levels, and lots of play time and positive socialization.
Fostering can be a lot of work but it is a very rewarding experience. By fostering, you are saving lives and helping dogs be ready for when they find the families they’ve been longing for.
Please take time to read our fostering guidelines. These guidelines will cover most common fostering questions but be sure to contact us through our email should a situation arise that is not covered here - info@cortezrescue.org
What Do Foster Families Need To Provide?
▪ A healthy and safe environment for your foster dog.
▪ Socialization and cuddle time to help teach your foster dog positive family and pet relationships.
▪ Lots of exercise and pawsitive stimulation to help them develop into wonderful, adoptable dogs.
How Much Time Do I Need To Spend With My Foster Dog?
As much time as you can. With that said, the amount of time will vary depending on the energy level and needs of the dog you are fostering. It is ideal to spend around two hours a day total socializing, exercising and playing with your foster dog to ensure that he or she receives adequate socialization and stimulation.
Can I Foster A Dog Even If I Have A Full-time Job?
Yes. If you have a full-time job, the foster coordinator will do their best to match you with a dog who may be OK alone during the workday. You would then just need to provide a secure space while you are away and ample exercise before or after you go to work.
Can I Foster A Dog If I Don’t Have A Fenced Yard?
Yes. Even if you do have a fenced yard, we request that you supervise all outdoor activities with the foster dog. And we ask that you always keep them on a leash when you’re on walks.
How Long Will The Dog Need To Be In Foster Care?
Ideally, our foster dogs stay in their foster homes until they get adopted. We understand that there are times when this is not possible and we ask that you communicate with us as far ahead of time as possible regarding a change in your fostering plans.
What If I Want To Adopt My Foster Dog?
Foster fails happen.
Please understand your foster dog will be advertised on our website and may be invited to attend Cortez Rescue and Outreach scheduled events such as Pup-Ups. If you decide you would like to adopt you foster dog, you will need to complete an adoption application and follow the regular adoption process. Also email us right away as once the dog is up for adoption, we cannot hold them for anyone, including the foster parent.
What If My Foster Dog Is Not Working Out?
You are not required to continue to foster a dog if you feel it’s not working out. This is rare but does occasionally happen. We hope that you have read our articles on decompression and welcoming your foster dog into your home. If you have not, please take a few minutes to do so. You will need to contact our foster coordinator if this situation arises ASAP.
Preparing For Your Foster Dog -
When you bring your foster dog home... they most likely will be frightened or unsure about what’s happening so it’s important not to overwhelm them. Prepare a special, quiet area for your foster dog to help ease their adjustment into a new home environment. Remember, that many of our dogs have never had a home and this is very foreign to them.
Sometimes it is better to confine the foster dog to a small room or area at first, to let them adjust before giving them free reign in your home. This area should be large enough for an appropriately sized crate for the dog (if using) and should allow the dog access to their food, water dishes and toys.
We request that all foster dogs be housed indoors only. A garage, backyard or outdoor run is not a suitable accommodation for a foster dog.
During the first couple of weeks... minimize people and pet introductions to your foster dog so that they are only meeting immediate family and your personal pets. If you have other pets at home, it is especially important to give your foster dog a space of her own where she can stay while getting used to all the new sounds and smells. Never leave your foster dog unattended in your home with your personal pets until you are comfortable that all of the animals can interact safely.
Supplies You’ll Need -
Here’s what you’ll need to help your foster dog make a smooth transition to living in your home:
▪ Two bowls 1 for food, 1 for water: Stainless steel or ceramic work best (supplied by the rescue.)
▪ A supply of dry dog food (supplied by the rescue.)
▪ A Collar with a Cortez Rescue ID tag and a leash (supplied by the rescue.)
▪ A Dog bed or soft place to sleep: Old towels or blankets work well. Let us know if you need to borrow a bed.
▪ Dog Treats: Giving treats is a good way to help train and build a positive relationship with your foster dog.
▪ Dog Toys: Make sure the toys are durable and appropriate for the size of your foster dog. Let us know if you need toys.
Optional Items -
▪ A Baby Gate: To keep certain areas of your home off-limits.
▪ Crate: The crate should be large enough for the dog to stand up and turn around in, but not much bigger than that. Not all dogs use or benefit from a crate, please let us know if you would like one.
▪ Dog Brush: A groomed dog has a better chance of getting adopted.
Dog-proofing Your Home -
Foster dogs come from a shelter environment, and even if they have previously lived in a home, we don’t always know how they will react in a new environment.
Before bringing home a new foster dog, you’ll want to survey the area where you are going to keep them and remove anything that would be unsafe or undesirable for the dog to chew on. Latch securely any cupboards and doors that the foster dog could get into. People food and chemicals can be very harmful if consumed by dogs, please store them in a place that the foster dog cannot access. Never underestimate your foster dog’s abilities to get into things around your home...indoors or out.
Here are some additional tips for dog-proofing your home -
▪ Make sure that all trash cans are covered or latched and keep them inside a closet. (Don’t forget the bathroom trash bins.)
▪ Keep toilet lids closed.
▪ Keep both people and pet food out of reach (and off all counter tops.)
▪ Move house plants or secure them. Some house plants are toxic to dogs. Make sure these are not placed within reach of your foster dog. Some dogs like to nibble the leaves or play with them and could be poisoned or knock plants over.
▪ Make sure aquariums or cages that house small animals, like hamsters or fish, are securely out of reach of your foster dog.
▪ Move and secure all electrical and phone wires out of reach. Dogs (especially puppies) may chew on or get tangled in them.
▪ Pick up any clothing items that have buttons or strings, which can be harmful to your foster dog if consumed.
▪ Relocate knick-knacks or valuables that your foster dog could knock down.
Choosing a Foster Dog -
The foster coordinator will work with you to select a foster dog who meets your specific requirements. We will always do our best to match you with a dog who fits with your lifestyle and schedule. You are invited to attend any one of our scheduled “Pup-Ups” to meet some of our rescue dogs and talk with our “on-site” volunteers that can help you find a dog that’s perfect for you and your family.
Dog Introductions -
If you have personal pets, especially dogs, you’ll want to introduce them properly to your foster dog... this should happen one at a time and under close supervision. It’s always a good idea if you can have someone help to introduce them outside, in a large yard or on a walk, keeping all the dogs on leash and allowing them enough space to get adjusted to one another. If you can, it works best to schedule a time for your personal dogs to meet the foster dog before you take the foster dog home.
High-value items (food, chew toys, plush toys, Kongs, or anything else that your dogs hold in high regard) should be put away whenever the dogs are interacting. You don’t want to allow the possibility of a fight. Those high-value items are best placed in the dogs’ personal areas.
Never feed your dogs in the same room as the foster dog if possible. Keep them separate at feeding time.
Cat Introductions -
We can’t ensure that a foster dog has been “cat-tested,” so if you have cats, you’ll need to make the introduction to the foster dog carefully and safely. Never leave your foster dog unsupervised with any cats in your home.
Children and Dogs -
We don’t always know nor can we predict a foster dog’s history or tolerance level for different types of people, noises and activities.
It is very important to teach your children how to act responsibly and respectfully around your foster dog.
We will do our best to place you with an appropriate animal for your home situation but you should still supervise all interactions between children and your foster dog.
Here are some key things to remind your children of while fostering -
▪ Always leave the foster dog alone when he/she is eating, chewing on treats & toys or sleeping. Some dogs may nip or bite if bothered while eating or startled while sleeping.
▪ Never take away a toy or prized possession from the foster dog.
▪ Never tease the foster dog.
▪ Don’t allow your young children to scream loudly or chase your foster dog or run quickly around the foster dog; it may scare them.
▪ Pick up all children’s toys. Some dogs may not be able to tell the difference between what is theirs and what belongs to the kids.
Feeding -
All foster dogs should be fed a diet of dry dog food, unless otherwise specified by the foster coordinator. Feed your foster dog twice daily; the amount will be based on the age and weight of your foster dog. Be sure to ask when picking up your foster dog as to the proper amount to feed. Make sure the dog always has access to fresh, clean water. Clean both food and water bowls daily.
You can give your foster dog limited treats (unless he/she has known allergies, of course.) Giving treats helps you and your foster dog to bond with each other. Most dogs like to chew, so try a bit of peeled carrot, Greenies, antlers, Nylabones or Dentalbones. Please do not give your foster dog rawhide of any kind. This has been proven dangerous if a dog swallows a piece. Keep in mind, though, that not all dogs like to share, so only give these treats when your foster dog is confined to their own area.
Daily Routine -
When you first bring your foster dog home, take care not to overwhelm them with too many new experiences all at once. Sometimes, too much stimulation can cause a dog to behave unexpectedly toward a person or animal, which is why it’s a good idea to keep introductions to a minimum during the first couple of weeks.
It’s also important to establish a daily routine of regularly scheduled feedings, potty breaks and walk times. Dogs take comfort in having a routine they can count on.
Be aware of your foster dog’s appetite and energy level. If they are not eating well or seem listless, something may be wrong medically. Please contact Cortez Rescue and Outreach immediately if you suspect your foster dog is ill or not eating well.
House-Training -
It’s unlikely that your foster dog will be perfectly house-trained when you bring them home. At the very least, be prepared for an adjustment period until your foster dog gets used to your schedule.
A dog has a better chance of being adopted if they are house-trained. Please help your foster dog to perfect this skill by taking your foster dog outside to go potty multiple times per day (3-6 times daily, depending on age).
Initially, you may need to take them out more frequently to remind them where the door to the outside is and to reassure them that you will take them out for regular potty breaks. Most dogs will give cues such as standing near the door or sniffing the ground and walking in small circles — to indicate that they need to go out.
If your foster dog has an accident inside the house, don’t discipline or punish them. It will only teach them to fear and mistrust you. Clean up all accidents with an enzymatic cleaner. Nature's Miracle and Simple Solution are two products containing natural enzymes that tackle tough stains and odors and remove them permanently.
Crate Training -
Crate training, done in a positive way, can be an effective component of house-training. A crate can be a safe place for your foster dog to have “down time” and can also limit their access to the entire house until they know the rules.
A crate should never be used as a form of punishment and a dog should never be left in a crate for an extended period of time.
You can prevent problems with crate training by setting your foster dog up for success. They should only associate good things with the crate. Start by putting treats and/or toys in the crate and encouraging them to go in. Some dogs warm up to the crate slowly. If they are afraid to go in, place a treat in the crate as far as they are willing to go. After they take the treat, place another treat, this time a little farther back in the crate. Keep going until they are eating treats at the very back of the crate. Feed them their next regular meal in the crate with the door open. This is important so they learn that they can walk in and out at will. Crate training a fearful dog can take days, so be patient and encouraging.
If a crate is properly introduced and used, your foster dog will see it as a safe space, happily enter and settle down.
Mental Stimulation and Exercise -
Depending on your foster dog’s age and energy level, they should get at least two 30-minute play sessions or walks with you per day. Try a variety of toys (balls, squeaky toys, rope toys, etc.) to see which ones your foster dog prefers. You will want to discourage your dog from playing with your hands, since mouthing won’t be a desirable behavior to adopters. You can also offer your foster dog a food-dispensing toy for mental stimulation. You hide treats in the toy and the dog has to figure out how to get the treats out.
Safety -
Please do not leave your foster dog outside unsupervised. Even if you have a fenced yard, problems can arise. We ask that you supervise your foster dog when they are outside at all times to ensure that they do not escape or have negative interactions with other people or animals.
Your foster dog should only be off-leash in an enclosed backyard that is completely fenced in. When walking or hiking with your foster dog, please keep them on leash at all times.
When transporting foster dogs, please keep them inside the vehicle. Never let your foster dog ride in the bed of an open pickup truck.
Thank You From Everyone At Cortez Rescue and Outreach For Making A Difference In A Dogs Life!!
Please contact us through our email with any questions info@cortezrescue.org
Animals That Live In Groups Or Packs... like dogs, establish relationships through which they interact and live together. The roles that each individual plays within the relationship can change with each new day or situation.
These relationships can take time to build, so proper introductions are very important to help the dogs adjust to one another and start to build on their relationships.
1 - INTRODUCE ONE DOG AT A TIME
If you have more than one resident dog in your household, it may be best to introduce the resident dogs to the new dog one at a time. Two or more resident dogs may have a tendency to “gang up”; on the newcomer.
2 - CHOOSE A NEUTRAL LOCATION FOR THE MEETING
Introduce the dogs in a neutral location so that your resident dog is less likely to view the newcomer as an intruder. Each dog should be handled by a separate person. With both dogs on a leash, take them to an area with which neither is familiar, such as a park, where you can go for a walk together.
If adopting a new dog from a shelter, we recommend bringing your resident dog with you to the shelter and introducing the dogs before adopting. Take the dogs for a walk starting out approximately 10-15 feet apart. Slowly allow the dogs to get closer together but do not allow them to meet while the handlers are holding the leashes. Give simple commands and offer food rewards often throughout the walk.
3 - BE AWARE OF BODY POSTURES
One body posture that indicates things are going well is a “play-bow.” One dog will crouch with her front legs on the ground and her hind end in the air. This is an invitation to play that usually elicits friendly behavior from the other dog.
Other appropriate investigative behaviors might include sniffing the air in the direction of the other dog, looking at or walking toward the other dog with a tail that is low and loose and wagging in a large arch.
Watch carefully for body postures that indicate an escalation in response, teeth-baring, deep growls, a stiff-legged gait, or a prolonged stare. If you see such postures, interrupt the interaction immediately by calmly and positively getting each dog interested in something else. For example, both handlers can walk backward while calling their dogs to them, have them sit or lie down, and reward each with a treat, then resume your walk.
Raised hackles or hair standing up on the dog’s back, may indicate that the dog is concerned and needs more space from the other dog and time to acclimate. It is not necessarily a concern but is something to notice in conjunction with other body language.
It is best to walk with the dogs on a loose or soft leash so that there is no pressure of tension on the leash from the handler. Pressure or tension on the leash can lead to a change in the dog’s body language that can be misinterpreted by the other dog.
4 - TAKING THE DOGS HOME
When the dogs seem to be tolerating each other without fearful or aggressive responses and the investigative greeting behaviors have tapered off, you can take them home to your backyard or to a friend’s neutral backyard. Bring both dogs into the yard and, when they are ignoring each other and perhaps sniffing around the yard, drop the leashes. Allow the dogs to investigate the yard and each other without interference from the handlers on the ends of the leashes.
Don’t force any interaction between the dogs. If the dogs ignore each other at first, or if one dog seems reluctant to interact with the other, that’s okay. It is appropriate for one dog to tell the other that they are moving too quickly or coming on too strong; this can be done with a growl, a bark, a lip curl, or even an air snap.
Consider allowing them to communicate with each other. It becomes inappropriate or problematic if it is a prolonged correction from the dog after the corrected dog moved away or if the corrected dog doesn’t back off. Give both dogs time to get comfortable. They’ll interact when they’re ready. Carefully watch the body language as described above. Hackles, or the raised hair along a dog’s back, are an involuntary response to excitement, arousal, fear, anxiety, or any other number of emotions. Hackles alone can’t tell you whether or not a dog is concerned about the other and they may calm over time.
Keep an eye out for other concerning body postures coupled with hackles before intervening. If you are concerned about the body language, the handlers can pick up the ends of the leashes and move in opposite directions to move the dogs away from one another.
Carefully watch the body language as described above. Hackles, or the raised hair along a dog’s back, are an involuntary response to excitement, arousal, fear, anxiety, or any other number of emotions. Hackles alone can’t tell you whether or not a dog is concerned about the other and they may calm over time. Keep an eye out for other concerning body postures coupled with hackles before intervening. If you are concerned about the body language, the handlers can pick up the ends of the leashes and move in opposite directions to move the dogs away from one another.
Once you are comfortable that the dogs are doing well together outside the home, pick up the leashes and take the new dog into the house while the second person remains outside with the resident dog.
Giving the new dog an opportunity to explore the home on her own can allow the dogs time to relax from the initial meeting as well as give the new dog a chance to get to know her new surroundings without the established dog interfering. You can also take this opportunity to remove any food, toys, bones, bedding, or other items that might trigger conflict between the dogs. Peek under the furniture and in between couch cushions for bones and toys hidden away.
In addition, giving the new dog the chance to enter the home first can often diffuse territorial issues. After the new dog has explored the home, bring the new dog into a large room on leash. You will want to prevent the dogs from having an initial meeting in the home in a narrow hallway or entryway. Bring the resident dog into the same room, also on a leash. When the dogs are not focused on each other, drop the leashes and allow both dogs to further investigate the room and each other.
Be patient. Bringing a new dog home requires that everyone make some adjustments, especially your current pets. And it will take time for your dogs to build a comfortable relationship.
5 -DO NOT LEAVE THE DOGS ALONE UNTIL YOU ARE CONFIDENT THEY ARE GETTING ALONG
This means observing their behavior toward each other when the door bell rings, when a squirrel is seen outside the window and other such exciting circumstances. It is okay to crate your new dog when you cannot supervise, even if the resident dog is allowed free roam. It is best to place the crated dog in a room behind a closed door away from the other dog so they cannot “talk” to each other through the crate door.
Take your time to observe their interactions before choosing to leave them alone unsupervised.
Consider getting breakaway collars for safety for crated dogs and when two dogs are playing to avoid any accidents.
6 - INTRODUCING PUPPIES TO ADULT DOGS
Puppies usually pester adult dogs unmercifully. Before approximately the age of four months, or sometimes older, puppies may not recognize subtle body postures from adult dogs signaling that they’ve had enough.
Well-socialized adult dogs with good temperaments may set limits with puppies with a growl or snarl, never hurting the puppy although the puppy may yelp out of surprise. This communication is healthy and should be allowed.
Adult dogs that aren’t well socialized or that have a history of fighting with other dogs, may attempt to set limits with more aggressive behaviors such as biting which could harm the puppy. For this reason, a puppy shouldn’t be left alone with an adult dog. Crating the puppy when alone will keep everyone safe and benefit house training.
Be sure to give the adult dog some quiet time away from the puppy, and perhaps some individual attention. When you help the adult dog have some space away from the puppy, the adult dog will likely be happier when it is time to be with the puppy.
Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado and ASPCA Virtual Pet Behaviorist.
Cortez Rescue and Outreach Volunteers Are Fully Aware Of The Importance Of Decompression With Our Dogs. However many new fosters are bit familiar with this concept and problems do occasionally arise.
Most people express their dogs behavior concerns within the first 72 hours. Unfortunately this can result in them giving up and returning the dog to the rescue. This can be traumatic for both the dog and the foster family.
Remember these dogs have been through a world of change. Some of these dogs have been surrendered to the Rescue. They were living a life in a home, they went for a car ride with their family and suddenly they are trapped in a tiny kennel at a shelter surrounded by strange people, strange sounds, and strange smells. Some of our dogs are strays that got lost and couldn’t find their way home. Some are street dogs that have never had a home and have no idea they want one.
Most are absolutely terrified when they arrive at the Rescue. The rescue or adopter is there to save them but the dogs don’t know that. We load them up in vans and cars and we drive them across town. They go to the veterinarian and more strange people stick them with needles and put them through strange tests. More new people, new sounds, and new smells.
If this was a person they would be absolutely shut down. Dogs on the other hand are expected to know when and where to potty, what they can and can’t chew on, know that they need to sleep quietly in a new kennel, and to be appropriately socialized when meeting new friends. For some dogs, they make the transition ok. Others make so many doggy mistakes and then they get dumped right back in a scary shelter environment because they take longer to adjust. Then we start the process all over again with them.
Unfortunately for the dogs people forget that they can’t talk. The dogs bark, they cry, they howl, they growl; they try to express their concerns in doggy language. They don’t know what we want. They have to be taught what we want. They aren’t perfect dogs. Many are broken, some are just bruised, but all need you and your loving patience and support.
Fostering a rescue dog isn’t always pretty,it isn't always easy nor is always clean, but it is always worth it. It’s our job to love them and train them. Give them the decompression time that they deserve so they can do what they do best, LOVE YOU.
(Compartido de Laura Berg)
Our Cortez Rescue and Outreach Volunteer Staff Are Absolutely Available to help you with behavior modification techniques for your foster dog.
We Love To Be Involved and welcome you letting us know what you need support with. Send Us a Message and we will be in touch just as soon as we can.
All of us in Rescue know the importance of decompression. However many new adopters and fosters aren't familiar with this concept.
Most occurrences of people wanting to return their foster or adopted dog happen within the first 72 hours of the dog coming to their home.
Rescue dogs have gone through a world of change. Some of these dogs have been surrendered... They were living a life in a home, they went for a car ride with their family and suddenly they are trapped in a tiny kennel at a shelter surrounded by strange people, strange sounds, and strange smells. Some dogs are strays that got lost and couldn't find their way home and others are street dogs that have never had a home and have no idea they even want one.
They are absolutely terrified when they arrive at the Rescue. These pups don't realize we are there to save them. We load them up in vans and cars and we drive them across town. They go to the veterinarian and more strange people stick them with needles and put them through strange tests. More new people, new sounds, and new smells.
If this was a person they would be absolutely shut down. The dogs on the other hand are expected to know when and where to potty, what they can and can't chew on, sleep quietly in a new kennel, and to be appropriately socialized when meeting new friends. For some dogs, they make the transition ok. Others make so many doggy mistakes and then they get dumped right back in a scary shelter environment because they take longer to adjust. Then we start the process all over again with them.
Unfortunately for the dogs people forget that they can't talk. The dogs bark, they cry, they howl, they growl; they try to express their concerns in doggy language. They don't know what we want. They have to be taught what we want. They aren't perfect dogs. Many are broken, some are just bruised, but all need you and your loving patience and support.
Volunteering, fostering and adopting isn't always pretty, it isn't always clean, but it is always worth it. It's our job to love them and train them.
Dales el tiempo de descompresión que se merecen para que puedan hacer lo que mejor saben hacer, te amo.
(Shared in-part from Laura Berg)
Cortez Rescue and Outreach, Main Facility - Solo por cita
KM 91.5 MX HWY 1
Las Cuevas, BCS, Mexico
OR
"Mini" Cortez - By Appointment Only OR Scheduled Events... You can find our secondary, smaller facility a quick 20 minutes north of our Main Facility in the town of Los Barriles on Don Pepe road.
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